Ficus burtt-davyi is a fig that is found in the southern parts of Africa. There are several common variants of this material available to the bonsai community. There are large, medium and small leaf cultivars that can be found.
This is one of the small leaf cultivars.
It is a very small plant of perhaps 3-4 inches/10cm in size and one of my smallest bonsai.
It is a worthwhile addition to any fig lovers collection.
Ficus burtt-davyi
Ficus palmeri is a fig native to Baja and Mexico. It is often found growing in seasonally dry areas and adapts to times of drought by losing its leaves and storing water in its trunk. The trunk and basal roots are often found plastered over rocky areas with the roots draping down rock faces and into crevices in a search for water.
The leaves of this fig are relatively large with long peitoles and the tree’s nature is not to have very dense branching. This is a problem in getting this material to look tree-like and to respond to bonsai training and styling.
Ficus palmeri with a large water storing caudex and pretty sparse branching
Viewed from the other side
Schefflera arboricola is one of the most suitable species for indoor bonsai growers. It tolerates low light and the errors of beginners in growing bonsai. It can also be grown in the most styles imaginable.
Roots are large and sturdy and can be used to form great bonsai with exposed roots.
My good friend David Fukumoto of Fuku-Bonsai has the best selection of amazing Schefflera for sale. See www.fukubonsai.com
Utilizing large leaf plants for bonsai is difficult. There are various techniques to deal with plants that have large leaves, like Ficus benghalensis.
The first shot shows the tree with its various sized leaves. These are large but already reduced just by being grown in a small container.
Ficus benghalensis with leaves that are too large
The second shot shows the tree in a defoliated state. In this leafless condition the branching and structure can be studied and analyzed. The bunjin/literati style is now appreciated once the distraction of the large leaves is removed, albeit temporarily. Once the new leaves grow out they will be smaller but eventually the newest leaves will grow out as full sized and ruin the illusion once again.
Defoliated the bunjin character and style of the tree can be analyzed and the scale of the design is now appropriate
One of the ways that I obtain material that is not commercially available is to find seed of rare species. Growing from seed is not the fastest or easiest way to obtain bonsai but it does allow one to exert complete control over the development of a bonsai.
While there are many ways to sprout seed I am currently sprouting my fig seed by sowing the seed on the surface of rock wool plugs. These plugs are available online or from garden centers.
The plug is kept in a shallow dish with a bit of water in the dish. This keeps the plug from drying out. Ficus seed take somewhere from 1-12 weeks to sprout or even longer. Plants are kept growing on this plug until they have 4-5 leaves on each sprout.
Once the seed has sprouted and two or three leaves have appeared the plugs can be placed into a bonsai soil mix. The surface of the plug should be 1/4-1/2 inch above the surrounding soil mix and allowed to grow for a year. Once the seedlings are quite sturdy with about 8 leaves on each one they can easily be removed from the plug and rooted into a pot of bonsai soil.
It normally takes 3-4 years from seed to get a plant large enough to begin bonsai training, so the process is not for the impatient bonsai grower.
Click below to read more details about seed growing.
Ficus tremula growing on top of a rock wool plug, Three weeks after sowing, several sprouting seeds are outlined in red.
http://www.bonsaihunk.us/ficusforum/FicusTechniques/FigTechnique33.html
http://www.fukubonsai.com/1a9a14.html
Click here for more information
Often a branch on a bonsai is too thin. To thicken it allow it to grow wildly without trimming it back. Keep the rest of the tree trimmed as normal.
Once the branch is of the proper thickness it can be shortened back and proper taper and ramification can be developed.
Red arrows point to the thickening branch
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On a visit to South Africa I saw a very interesting fig, Ficus tremula, shaped as a small bonsai in the bonsai collection of my friend Hennie Nel.
I was unable to find Ficus tremula for sale in the US so I am resorting to growing them from seed. It will take many years for these now two month old seedlings to mature into a reasonable bonsai. Growing from seed is for the young and those with lots of patience.
Ficus tremula bonsai grown by Hennie Nel of South Africa
Ficus tremula at two months of age grown from seed
For more information on growing figs from seed see:
http://www.bonsaihunk.us/ficusforum/FicusTechniques/FigTechnique33.html
I was gifted this Ficus microcarpa from my good friend David Fukumoto in 2004. It was just accepted into the bonsai collection of the Denver Botanic Garden this July of 2015.
Defoliated to show the branch patterns
Partially re-leafed after defoliation
In full leaf
Larry Jackel, curator of the DBG bonsai collection, and his Ponderosa pine
I am greatly honored to have one of my best trees find a wonderful home for the next phase of its life. A place where it will live and be admired for many years.
To review the history of this fig please refer to:
http://www.bonsaihunk.us/info/RainforestFicus.html
http://www.bonsaihunk.us/info/RainforestFicus2.html
http://www.bonsaihunk.us/info/RainforestFicus3.html
http://www.fukubonsai.com/5a30.html
The first 5 years of progress with a Ficus microcarpa, Chinese Banyan, was outlined in a previous blog see http://www.bonsaihunk.us/public_html/?s=part+l
This is an update on how this fig has progresse as of April, 2015. It still has some years of refinement to undergo before it can claim its position as a mature bonsai.
Two procedures were accomplished today that are helping bring this bonsai in training a step closer to its end point. One, is to reveal the thickening produced by the second set of fusion grafts of rooted branches that were started 5-6 months ago.
Apex as a single sprout of very thin dimension, allowed to grow wildly to thicken it up, 2013
First set of fusion grafts are successful but not yet thick enough, 2014
Second set of fusions at apex current appearance, 2015
Roots from fusion in moss conduit leading to plastic container to the bonsai pot
Plastic pot of soil leading roots down to the soil in bonsai pot
Roots can be seen growing into the bonsai pot
Red arrow shows the path of the roots from the apex fusions to the bonsai pot
The second procedure was the approach graft on the right . Previously 3 approach grafts were tried and all failed for various reasons. A fourth approach graft was done today to once again try to get a branch established in this position. Since it it is the first branch and lowest branch on the right side of the tree it is crucial to have this set in proper position of good size and of the right shape as it will be key to setting the design of the rest of the bonsai tree.
Bonsai with first branch on right grafted and first set of apex fusions underway at the top of the tree, 2014
Close up of the lowest right graft already established on its own but soon to be accindentally knocked off – planted and grown on its own to become the 4th approach graft
Above cutting, rooted, flipped vertically and graft held to stock with wire
Approach graft’s root are led into the pot of soil, 2015
As of 2015 the process is now 5 years along since started by Jack Pollock and the tree is moving along amazingly well. I am guessing that another 3-5 years will pass by before the tree is an attractive bonsai. In the meanwhile the tree has provided me a lot of reason to continue to learn and grow in the wonders of the bonsai world.
Some 20 + years ago a dear friend gave me a rooted cutting of an unusual plant. It is supposedly a cross generic hybrid of Pyracantha and Osteomeles. The plant has survived growing indoors for all these years and makes an attractive cascade or semi-cascade as it seems to like growing a bit downwards.
Approximate size of the original cutting some 20 years ago
Cascade style works naturally for this specie’s growth pattern
The wood once set is quite hard and cannot be bent safely. All bends done with wire must be done in the green stage of the branches. Cut and grow is also an easy way to shape it.
It has never bloomed for me and it is fascinating that it would tolerate my warm and humid growing conditions and has never been subject to a cool rest period.
If you can find one it may be a fun plant to play with for your indoor bonsai collection.