
Ficus racemosa showing figs on the trunk and branches

Large red figs on the trunk
Ficus racemosa showing figs on the trunk and branches
Large red figs on the trunk
The images show one of mine that is only 2 years from a root cutting.
Root cutting in 2013
Same cutting in 2015
Here are two of my small fig trees. Neither are completed bonsai but just for fun. The species is possibly Ficus burkei.
A small Ficus burkei that needs a lot more refining
Another Ficus burkei
Mexican has many similarities to the Willow Leaf fig, Ficus salicaria, but it has much larger leaves. The plant responds very well to bonsai culture and should be a welcome addition to the bonsai world.
Ficus ‘Mexicana’ given to me in 2008
Same tree in 2009
In full leaf, 2015
Bonsai need periodic wild growth to gather energy and to re-balance parts of the tree that might need more development but then comes the time to bring them back to shape.
Wild growth to gather strength
Trimmed back to a normal bonsai appearance
A very pretty and mature tree donated by Dr. Melvin Goldstein to the bonsai collection at the Univeristy of Michigan.
Tim decided to graft the smaller leaf form into the large trunk of the larger leaf variety. This would put smaller leaves onto a larger trunk specimen; always a desirable featue in a bonsai.
Three grafts were placed. The top one was an approach graft bringing a long branch of the small leaf tree and placing it into a groove in the top of the large trunk, large leaf tree. Two other grafts were placed lower on the tree and these were free grafts not attached to the parent tree.
Baggies were closed around the free grafts as a humidity measure to keep these small grafts from drying out while the grafts took. Baggies are removed in several weeks when the grafts are showing signs of taking.
The top approach graft is kept in place until the graft shows signs of growing strongly and then is severed away from the mother tree.
Grafting is one way to introduce better foliage on a tree.
Large leaf trunk, B, small leaf trunk A well secured so that it does not move – Red line shows the path of the branch from tree A to tree B
It has just not been vigorous and I have had to consider discarding it or perhaps re-styling it. My decision was to get radical and to cut the tree in half. One part will become a slant or windswept while the top portion with only one root was secured on a rock to justify its poor root system. Time will tell if I can bring these two to a satisfactory bonsai design.
The overall vigor of the tree may respond to less water, coarser soil and allowing it to rest during the shorter days of winter. Time will tell.
The tree was cut in half
Thickening will occur in direct proportion to the number of leaves photosynthesizing on the branch. Keep more leaves to produce more energy and more growth to thicken the branch. After the branch has enough thickness it will need to be shortened back to proper length for the design and then twigging density can be accomplished.
Branches also can be kept on the trunk to accomplish trunk thickening and later removed. Thickening only occurs on the trunk below the branch and not above it.
Periodically the overgrown tree will be trimmed back, given a haircut to bring the design back to a more compact design while also keeping the needed branches and eliminating the ones that are not necessary. This process is repeated until the later stages of a bonsai’s maturity.
Once mature and the design is set growth is kept more restrained. The cycle of growth followed by trimming back is kept up for many years until the tree hits maturity when a more restrained growth and tim back cycle begins.
Willow Leaf fig that has been allowed to grow wildly in order to strengthen it, provide more branches for the design and to thicken the roots draped over the rock